As enlightening as it is entertaining, Albi’s colorful, irreverent wine list focuses on offerings from the Mediterranean. There’s special attention paid to the Levant region, which is the heart of chef and owner Michael Rafidi’s cooking. Albi shifted to a tasting menu, or sofra, recently in the dining room, with an à la carte menu available in the bar area. Chermoula rockfish with black lime and crab fat-buttermilk sauce with back-vintage Château Musar? Yes, please.