While some tasting menus can feel like a slog, Ardent’s 12 (or so)-course dinner with thoughtful, globetrotting pairings is an intimate, unpretentious celebration of food and wine. Beer cheese and cured local walleye receive equal billing with foie gras and caviar. Pairings are a refreshing balance between traditional and modern, from grower Champagne and old Barolo to small-production natural wines from around the world.