This sommelier-owned Spanish spot has a tight, informative wine list that uses Northern Spain as a jumping-off point rather than a constraint. There are wines from Languedoc-Roussillon, selected for their proximity to Spain, and innovative young Rioja producers offered alongside traditional bottlings from the 1980s. The list has an “Islands and Volcanoes” section that’s especially good with the dishes cooked over a wood fire. The menu is a balance of mostly vegetable dishes with a few large-format meats and fish. There’s also an extensive imported tinned-fish selection.