Owner Ashley Christensen remains one of the country’s most tireless advocates for the restaurant community. Of Christensen’s several restaurants, this feels like her most celebratory. Most of Executive Chef Lauren Ivey’s high-end, Lowcountry dishes are cooked over (or buried in) a wood fire. Its wines, chosen to complement the complex, smoky flavors, are organized by flavor profile, rather than region or grape variety. Don’t miss the reserve wine list, which has some terrific bargains on back-vintage bottles.