This San Francisco favorite was a pioneer when it opened in 2009. It uses traditionally made artisanal pastas as a springboard for seasonal American dishes like chili fusilli with confit pig ear, lemon farfalle with three peas, and cappellacci with goat sausage and summer peppers. The restaurant has a large cellar, but the wine director, Sam Bogue, opts for a rotating list of about 80 bottles. Not only is it less stressful for guests, it allows staffers to always be tasting, learning and discussing something new.