Open-fire cooking is rarely as refined as at Hestia, where a 20-foot hearth produces dishes like a Berkshire pork chop with charred cabbage and sotol butter, and lion’s mane mushrooms with black bean koji, smoked oil, roasted young beets and red turnips. The list of the wine director, Alicia Schmidt, hovers around 250 bottles, a perfect compromise between broad and curated. Look for extensive by-the-glass offerings of sweet wines and Sherry.