Sectioning part of the wine list into “Tried and True” vs. “Leap of Faith” makes perfect sense alongside chef Anthony Wells’ dazzling food that combines formal technique with impressive imagination. The tomato salad here is laden with lemon curd, pickled shallots and pistachios in a pink peppercorn vinaigrette. Meanwhile, fresh linguine brings together sea urchin and chorizo, garnished with arugula and cotija cheese. Brand-new beverage director Jeremy Simpson brings a passion for natural wine—and mezcal—to what’s already one of San Diego’s best drink programs.