Though located in a hotel and town steeped in maritime nostalgia, this spot serves remarkably dynamic, modern New England cuisine with nods to the region’s Mexican and Italian populations. Menus change daily, thanks to the numerous nearby farms. Recent dishes include roasted local Seacoast mushrooms with black pepper mole and sprouted grains, and raw Stonington scallops with strawberry, chili and lime. The wine director, Kathleen Standridge, has assembled an extensive list that follows the restaurant’s sustainable and organic ethos.